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sizing 20 posts, 4 writers, 55 readers, started 67 months ago

posted 67 months ago (Saturday, November 3) by debby
#1
Hi
Does anyone know where I log my measurements.    At the moment I don't want to do all the hundreds of measurements.  Just the basic ones but I can't see where I put them.
I have just started using this.  It looks really exciting!


posted 67 months ago (Saturday, November 3) by debby
#2
Sorted

posted 65 months ago (Wednesday, December 5) by jne4sl
#3
Question about custom sizing.

I mostly use Sewist Cad patterns.  I seem to have different behavior based on size group.  I mostly work in women's and mostly entering a custom size works there.  I had found that if I attempt to enter a girl's (or men's or boy's) the custom size never completes, stays on the pending red battery icon, and never becomes available for use with patterns.

I discovered yesterday that if I choose a girl's size that matches the measurements of one of the iso Russia options, then I can create a labeled custom size in girl's.  So for example, I click height 140, bust 68, hip 80.2, and then look up the corresponding under bust and full hip (65.5, 78.2).  Then, I was able to create a labelled custom size using those five numbers and it's available under "My Sizes" when I'm working with a pattern.  But if I used the actual measurements (138, 69, 80, with 59 and 82) the custom size will never generate.

I've never had a problem entering women's sizes, and getting a custom size to generate, but at least in the past, it seemed like if the women's sizes entered didn't match one of the "canned" sizes, the pattern would fail to generate with a system error at the pdf stage.  This would happen even if the pattern appeared correct on the layout page and even if the pattern didn't call any "sz" variables (e.g. my draft was only using fixed numbers).  Of course, all patterns, other than the accessories size group, must call the sizes behind the scenes to generate the printed labels.  Anyway, not sure if the issues are related, or if the issue with women's sizes is now already resolved.

It just seems like, for girl's sizes custom generation only works if the size actually matches an iso Russia option, whereas, entering women's sizes is less restricted, but possibly there will be an issue when it comes time to request a .pdf.
This post has replies: ( #4 )

This post is reply to #3
posted 65 months ago (Thursday, December 6) by Sewist
#4
We'll look into the custom girls sizes, meanwhile, it seems you were using a size where Hips and Full hips are exactly equal. We are still trying to figure out how that size could be saved, but in general this is not allowed. If you fix the size by editing the full hips measurement, the pattern will go through fine. Could you please try?
This post has replies: ( #5 )

This post is reply to #4
posted 65 months ago (Thursday, December 6) by jne4sl
#5
Most recently I've been in the habit of reporting full hip as 2cm greater than hip, even if there isn't a measurable difference.  

To start a size the data required is (Height, Bust, Under Bust, Waist, Full Hip, Hip).  So, yesterday, I created
girls (138, 69, 59, 57, 82, 80)   the form requires hip before full hip, but entered them correctly.
and it never generated a size.
I created
girls (140, 68, 65.5, 63, 80.2, 78.2)
and the size generated immediately.  I'd gotten the numbers by pre-selecting the closest measurements for height/bust/hip and copying down the remaining three sizes.
Just now, I created
girls (138, 68, 65.5, 63, 80.2, 78.2)
changing only the height and the custom size didn't generate.
I also tried changing only the waist:
girls (140, 68, 65.5, 60, 80.2, 78.2)
and the size didn't generate.

I'm not sure if I'm currently having any issues with women's sizes.  I'll see if matching high hip and hip was the issue there and let you know.

This post has replies: ( #6 )

This post is reply to #5
posted 65 months ago (Thursday, December 6), edited 65 months ago by jne4sl
#6
For Women's sizing you are correct. I did still have one size with hip = full hip = 94.0 and attempting to use that causes an error at pdf generation.  I entered a new size with full hip = 96.0 and the problem was solved.

When did the ability to enter additional size parameters go up?  I guess I haven't looked in a while.  That should be great, I haven't tried it!
This post has replies: ( #7 )

This post is reply to #6
posted 65 months ago (Friday, December 7) by Sewist
#7
Oh, it is a new thing, we haven't yet advertised it. I still have to work on the FAQs regarding this, but you are welcome to try changing the secondary sizes. If you change the primary ones, the size will be regenerated. 
This post has replies: ( #8 )

This post is reply to #7
posted 65 months ago (Thursday, December 13) by jne4sl
#8
I put this to use immediately, it's a huge help to be able to control more of the sizing.  Any chance there could be a "notes" field added to the personal size chart?  I had a couple things about the measurements I wanted to remember.  Things like left hip height +1cm.  I don't need this accessible from a pattern, just a place to keep track of anything unusual about the measurements.

This probably wouldn't be practical, but if there were a couple custom fields that could default to zero but be used to pass an extra parameter to a pattern, it could be useful.

posted 65 months ago (Sunday, December 30), edited 65 months ago by jne4sl
#9
So, I have been playing with the auxiliary sizing and it's a huge help to be able to isolate more measurements.  What I find is it's not possible to change the primary sizes, it would be necessary to start a new size file for that.  There are other entries which are displayed but greyed out because they are dependent on other entered sizes.  I understand that, however, if those sizes are edited, the dependent size never recalculates.  So for example sz76 is not editable because sz76 = sz36 + sz43 - sz44 and the other three are editable.  But when do change one, of the three, sz76 isn't recalculated.  So when I go to use the size, I then need to use the formula instead of calling sz76.

Second question, I'm trying to control scye width, sz57, which is not displayed and presumably linked to other sizes.  I'm guessing it's dependent on things like the bust girths and maybe chest width, sz45, and back width, sz47, but maybe not as straightforward of a calculation.  Do you have any insight into how sz57 is calculated? [eta: answering my own question, I guess sz57, arm width, is not exactly scye width, I'll just use half of (sz16 - sz45 - sz47) as my only goal is to total to the chest measurement, and it doesn't need to have a dedicated size variable.  Also, this prevents me from assigning ease inconsistently.]

Finally, the language explaining the arm lengths sz32 and sz33 is ambiguous again.  They refer to shoulder point S, but I think that should be point Y as sz31 is included in the the measurement.

"'Place measurement tape as for measuring size 31. Measure from shoulder point (S) to wrist (point U). (Figure 4)."

I just think the second sentence can be misinterpreted as starting from S.

posted 64 months ago (Thursday, January 10), edited 64 months ago by jne4sl
#10
Another small issue with creating custom sizes.  I want to create two sizes that are the same height/bust/hip but different waist and also different in auxiliary measurements.  I've done this and given them different names and I'm able to enter everything and go back and confirm it was saved in both entries.  However when I go to select the second custom size from a pattern, both sizes are highlighted and the first custom size is used instead.  It's as if these two sizes have been identified.  I tried entering a third size with yet another name and then all three are selected at once no matter which I click, and still only the first one entered seems to be accessible.  

My only guess is it has something to do with how the iso Russia sizes are selected by clicking a height, then a bust, then a hip.  So even though other elements of the sizes are distinct, they're all built on top of the same iso Russia size???  Maybe that's just a coincidence, but they do look produce the same summary data, anyway I can't get this to work, so I'm back to hardwiring the size info into my pattern.



This post has replies: ( #11 #12 )

This post is reply to #10
posted 64 months ago (Thursday, January 17) by Sewist
#11
Hello and thanks for the headsup. This is being fixed and they promise to upload a fix tomorrow, I'll report here. :)

This post is reply to #10
posted 64 months ago (Monday, January 21) by Sewist
#12
Fixed and released :)

posted 64 months ago (Tuesday, January 22) by jne4sl
#13
It's working, thanks!

posted 63 months ago (Wednesday, February 13) by jne4sl
#14
What's the recommended way to access the hip-to-waist distance?  I tend to use sz86 'height of buttocks' to be hip level and subtract that from sz7 'height of waist'.  Is that correct?  Then the next question, would be can sz86 be added to the sizes available for modification in the extended size chart?  It's very common for drafts to require this distance and just like anything else, for a given individual it won't be perfectly proportional to their height.  Some people have a short torso but log legs, and setting the waist level leads to a waist-hip distance that's too long.  If sz86 is dependent on one of the other sizes, which is it?  The only possibilities I see are sz49 'seat height' or sz77 'crotch'.  

Then there's still the issue, of although dependent sizes aren't accessible for editing, they also don't recalculate when the sizes they are dependent on are edited.  So if I increase sz13, 'neck girth', I can't edit sz76, 'back neckline', but it also doesn't recalculate to correspond to the new neck size.  This means I have to remember not to call 'back neckline', etc.
This post has replies: ( #15 )

This post is reply to #14
posted 63 months ago (Friday, February 15) by Sewist
#15
In the size standards that we base the program on somehow this size measurement is not present. Hard to believe, but so it is. I suggest you look up the public skirt/dress patterns for a formula, as it was tested and works fine.

We will look into sz13/sz76 dependancies, thanks for the heads up!
This post has replies: ( #16 #17 )

This post is reply to #15
posted 63 months ago (Friday, February 15), edited 63 months ago by jne4sl
#16
Post deleted

This post is reply to #15
posted 63 months ago (Friday, February 15) by jne4sl
#17
Thanks!  Good to know I wasn't missing something obvious, and it did seem odd to be going so deep into the size chart, sz86, for a formula.  So I found this in the skirt pattern:

hip_length = (sz7 - sz12) * 0.76 // length from waist to hips

Which seems reasonable, hip above the top of the leg, about a quarter of the distance to the waist.  My next question would be, since sz12 is pretty important to getting a good fit, can it be added as an editable option in the expanded size chart?    I hadn't paid much attention to sz12, but it is pretty fundamental to sewing, since top of gluteal furrow would be a traditional jacket length.  So being able to edit would be helpful for hip base bodices, and if I really wanted to force the hip size, I could set

sz12 = sz7 - hip_length/0.76

and have saved size that works as expected with the Lekala patterns.  Anyway, I tried the formula and it works better than what I'd been doing (still doesn't replicate the size other chart I was working with, but close enough).

Thanks for looking into the dependencies.  There are others too, of course, like, sz44--length of torso arc.  When it's measured on the body, the back neck length is included, so if it's then used with an incorrect back neck length, proportions will be thrown off.
This post has replies: ( #18 )

This post is reply to #17
posted 63 months ago (Saturday, February 16) by Sewist
#18
Thanks for the valuable comments - indeed, this is the reason why the pro editing of sizes is still not widely advertised and is so to say in beta mode.

We will be looking into this after 23 February, as I am on vacation now, but will create a new ticket for the IT re sz44.

As for forcing the size on the user side, this might be too deep for the current state of the application. :)
This post has replies: ( #19 )

This post is reply to #18
posted 63 months ago (Monday, February 25) by jne4sl
#19
Thanks.  As far as forcing the size, I'm just saying it's a small way I would use it, not recommending to everyone.  As things are, for example, based on my height sz12, gluteal furrow, is being set 2.5 cm shorter than what I actually measure, but I can't change that, so even with a hip level formula, there's an error to contend with.  Now maybe sz12 is another size that shouldn't be alterable because it's too closely tied to some size that can already be entered, but in that case it's probably the same issue that occurs with sz44, and sz12 at least needs to be recalculated when additional data are input.  E.g. if I indicate a high waist, with my input for sz7, if that's what sz12 was based on, it should be recalculated and presumably there'd then be a higher sz12. 

Regardless, sz12 is an easy measurement to take, even though I haven't seen it requested in a sizing scheme before.  So, I'm satisfied basing hip-height on both waist- and furrow-height (especially since hip-height is a little harder to measure consistently even though it is ubiquitous), but then I'm dependent on sz12 being accurate.  At least the way I'm thinking of it now.

Thanks.

posted 57 months ago (Sunday, August 18) by mpastinelli
#20
Hello, 

I would like to adjust my size for a sway back and I cant find wich measurement I should adjust for that. Someone  can tell me?

Thanks,

Madeleine
This post has replies: ( #21 )

This post is reply to #20
posted 57 months ago (Monday, August 19) by Sewist
#21
Dear Madeleine,

Probably pay attention to sz39/sz40, and the center back 'dart'? It is difficult to advise without understanding which method of drafting you use.

There is also the method of rotating the back center seam + back neckline counterclockwise around the center back waist point. This usually helps if all the rest is fine, and just the back is too bulky.

Hope this helps!