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Pattern Drafting 2 posts, 1 writers, 22 readers, started 23 months ago

posted 23 months ago (Sunday, December 27) by Sewist
In this thread, we shall post some examples of the pattern drafting exercises.

posted 23 months ago (Sunday, December 27) by Sewist
The first example is the front bodice gathered at the bottom. We need to transfer all the existing darts to the bottom and then recreate the path for waist, as if we would be using tapered spread technique.

First, rotate all elements on the left of the pattern closing the bust dart, using rotate command.

Second, create a single path for waist - in the standard template it consists of two elements for center part and side part. For side part, we would need the one that is rotated to close the waist part.

Now, I could trace a new curve for the waist, starting at w1 (center waist) and ending in ws1r (rotated side waist) - but I want this code to work for all waist seams including shaped ones, so I'll use spread. As we are basically dealing with dart manipulation, I will spread around the bust. I will create a tiny line to use as the top element of the spread, and then spread the waist at 0 degrees along center front and up to ws1r at the side, so for the total amount of bust dart plus waist dart:

spread((top_spread, front_waist), top_spread, front_waist, 0, dart_front_angle+angle(v11,n,v12), "t")
We now have a new waist line which is the result of the spread action. Just to be sure it does arrive to the planned points at center waist and side waist, I am going to adjust it to these 2 points using nest command:


I would like to add a marking to show where the gathering should happen, and will use a wiggly line for that. It will pass along the new waist line:

1) Draw a line along the new waist line:
front_gather = along(front_waistt, 1, 2)
2) Make it wiggly:
wiggle((front_gather), 2, 0.5, 0)
Finally, add text info to note how long the ready edge should be:

t_ws1r = type("Gather to "+round(front_waist.l,1)+" cm", ws1r, [ws1r:w1].a1, 1)